There was a little bit of tension as we were visiting. A journalist had disappeared in the Saudi embassy, and the city had stepped up its police presence. There was a booth with an officer outside the entrance to the religious sights and the roads were cordoned off with gates to prevent vehicle access. But other than that, it was quite quiet. Vendors were selling grilled corn on the cob and donner kebabs, and tricking customers in jest as they sold dondurma. Our hotel was in a small district of independent restaurants so we didn’t have far to travel for our evening meal; but some of them were very persuasive to entice you in. One such place employed a man to wear a white gown every night and spin around in time to droll music. He didn’t particularly show any passion, speed or enthusiasm, but this drew a crowd every night we passed. A popular dish is a lamb roast in a clay pot, which they make quite a ceremony of by setting it alight in the street for everyone to see by tapping on it with a large knife and encourage everyone to clap along before smashing it.
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